PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Cucurbita spp.
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well‐drained, high organic matter
pH RANGE: 5.5 ‐ 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep evenly moist, not waterlogged
MATURITY IN DAYS: 90 ‐ 120
KNOWN PESTS: Striped and spotted cucumber beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Powdery mildew
OVERVIEW:
No vegetable is more exciting to a child than the pumpkin. If you want to spark a childs interest in gardening, encourage them with their very own pumpkin patch. Theirs to nuture, care for and "weed". They may fuss a little when it is time to work, but when they see that pumpkin start to grow and then carve it at Halloween ‐ they'll be hooked. Pumpkins grow quickly and can reach very large sizes ‐ perfect for the kids. Of course, many adults get the same thrill from growing pumpkins. Pumpkins benefit from a rich soil and a sunny location. For perfect pumpkins on Halloween place a good thick layer of straw underneath each pumpkin ‐ this will keep moisture away from the pumpkin skin and produce better colour. Pumpkin is used in cooking for pies, cakes, bread and so on.
PROPAGATION / SOWING OF PUMPKINS:
Plant pumpkins after all danger of frost has past and when the soil has warmed to 21°C (70°F). For early plantings, use floating row covers to raise soil temperature, increase early growth and protect tender pumpkin plants from wind injury. Sow pumpkins 1” deep, 6” apart in rows 48‐72” apart. Thin pumpkin plants to 24‐36” apart. Plant vining pumpkins at the edge of the garden to prevent the plants from over‐taking the entire site. Space bush type pumpkins 24” apart in rows 36‐48” apart.
COMPANION PLANTING:
Pumpkins do well with celery, corn, onion, radish.
CARE & GROWING PUMPKINS:
Pumpkins prefer full sun and a soil pH of 5.5‐6.5. Pumpkins are moderate feeders; prefer a rich loamy soil of good fertility and moisture retention. Mix plenty of organic matter into soil. Even and sufficient soil moisture is essential. Pumpkins benefit from mild feedings with a fertilizer high in phosphorous to initiate fruit formation.
HARVESTING PUMPKINS:
Harvest pumpkins before a killing frost or when pumpkins are deep orange in colour. Simply cut pumpkins from the vine leaving 4‐6” of stem attached to the fruit. Store in a cool, dry area.
POTATOES
PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Solanum tuberosum
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well‐drained with moderate organic matter
pH RANGE: 5.5 ‐ 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Uniform moisture, especially while tubers are developing MATURITY IN DAYS: 90 ‐ 110
KNOWN PESTS: Potato beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Blight
OVERVIEW:
There is a large selection of potato varieties available. Potatoes vary considerably in shape, size, colour, cooking and eating qualities. Check with your local garden shop to see which potatoes are available for your soil (test if required). If you are not sure what type of potato you prefer, it is worth trying a few to see which best suits your soil, and your tastes. I have had good success adding a small amount of rough sawdust into the soil to retain moisture (good if your soil is heavy or dries out quickly). Make sure you don't use sawdust(chips) from a wood species know to carry toxic oils, like cedar or treated wood. To avoid introducing pests and diseases ‐ plant good quality, certified seed potatoes.
PROPAGATION / SOWING:
Potatoes are tolerant of cool soil and frost, potatoes can be planted in late spring. Remove potato tubers from storage and warm to a temperature of 50‐60°F, to enhance sprout formation. Small potato tubers (golf ball size) may be planted whole. Larger tubers can be cut into pieces weighing about 2 ounces each having at least 1‐3 eyes. Seed pieces can be planted immediately after cutting, but will generally sprout and show better resistance to decay if, after cutting, are left in a cool, moist room with good ventilation for 3 days. Sow potato seed pieces 3‐4 inches deep. Leave 10‐12” between plants in rows 2‐3 feet apart. Closer plantings can result in better yields, but with smaller potatoes. Do not plant potato tubers directly from cold storage.
COMPANION PLANTING:
Potatoes do well with bush bean, cabbage family, corn, parsnip, peas.
CARE & GROWING:
Grow potatoes in full sun with a soil pH of 5.5‐6.5. Potatoes are heavy feeders which require deep fertile soil with good drainage. Mineral soils are best. Apply plentiful amounts of compost and well rotted manure. Fresh manure will promote development of scab organism. Lime should also be avoided at planting time. Maintain even moisture as interruptions in moisture will cause irregular growth spurts resulting in rough, knobby, malformed or cracked tubers. Hill plants when they are 1 foot tall, by hoeing up 6‐8” of soil around the plant.
HARVESTING:
Early potatoes can be dug when tubers reach a useable size. This is often 2‐5 weeks after flowering. Potatoes for storage crops should be left in the ground until light frosts or natural decline cause the tops to wither.
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Solanum tuberosum
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well‐drained with moderate organic matter
pH RANGE: 5.5 ‐ 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Uniform moisture, especially while tubers are developing MATURITY IN DAYS: 90 ‐ 110
KNOWN PESTS: Potato beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Blight
OVERVIEW:
There is a large selection of potato varieties available. Potatoes vary considerably in shape, size, colour, cooking and eating qualities. Check with your local garden shop to see which potatoes are available for your soil (test if required). If you are not sure what type of potato you prefer, it is worth trying a few to see which best suits your soil, and your tastes. I have had good success adding a small amount of rough sawdust into the soil to retain moisture (good if your soil is heavy or dries out quickly). Make sure you don't use sawdust(chips) from a wood species know to carry toxic oils, like cedar or treated wood. To avoid introducing pests and diseases ‐ plant good quality, certified seed potatoes.
PROPAGATION / SOWING:
Potatoes are tolerant of cool soil and frost, potatoes can be planted in late spring. Remove potato tubers from storage and warm to a temperature of 50‐60°F, to enhance sprout formation. Small potato tubers (golf ball size) may be planted whole. Larger tubers can be cut into pieces weighing about 2 ounces each having at least 1‐3 eyes. Seed pieces can be planted immediately after cutting, but will generally sprout and show better resistance to decay if, after cutting, are left in a cool, moist room with good ventilation for 3 days. Sow potato seed pieces 3‐4 inches deep. Leave 10‐12” between plants in rows 2‐3 feet apart. Closer plantings can result in better yields, but with smaller potatoes. Do not plant potato tubers directly from cold storage.
COMPANION PLANTING:
Potatoes do well with bush bean, cabbage family, corn, parsnip, peas.
CARE & GROWING:
Grow potatoes in full sun with a soil pH of 5.5‐6.5. Potatoes are heavy feeders which require deep fertile soil with good drainage. Mineral soils are best. Apply plentiful amounts of compost and well rotted manure. Fresh manure will promote development of scab organism. Lime should also be avoided at planting time. Maintain even moisture as interruptions in moisture will cause irregular growth spurts resulting in rough, knobby, malformed or cracked tubers. Hill plants when they are 1 foot tall, by hoeing up 6‐8” of soil around the plant.
HARVESTING:
Early potatoes can be dug when tubers reach a useable size. This is often 2‐5 weeks after flowering. Potatoes for storage crops should be left in the ground until light frosts or natural decline cause the tops to wither.
KALE
PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Brassica oleracea var acephala
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Organically rich soil, well‐drained
pH RANGE: 6.0 ‐ 7.0
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average
MATURITY IN DAYS: 55 ‐ 60
KNOWN PESTS: Cabbage worms and loopers, root maggots, aphids and Diamondback moths KNOWN DISEASES: Head rot and downy mildew
OVERVIEW:
Kale does not do well in hot weather, but doesn't mind the cold. Depending on your climate kale can also be sown in October for spring use if covered with straw during the winter. Kale is rich in Vitamins A and C, high in potassium, calcium and iron, and is a good source of fiber. Kale maintains flavor best when frozen. Kale is also great in salads.
PROPAGATION / SOWING OF KALE:
Plant kale as soon as the ground can be worked, very frost tolerant. Sow ¼‐½” deep, 1” apart in rows 18‐30” apart. Thin seedlings to 8‐12” apart. Kale germinates easily in cool or warm soil temperatures with even moisture.
COMPANION PLANTING OF KALE:
Bush bean, beet, celery, cucumber, lettuce, onion, potato.
CARE & GROWING OF KALE:
Choose an area with full sun and a soil pH of 6.0‐7.0. Enrich the soil with compost or well rotted manure. Flavour of kale is improved if the plants grow quickly. Kale benefits from additional feedings of liquid fertilizer during the growing season.
HARVESTING OF KALE:
Kale leaves can be used at any time for salads or as garnishes. Leaves are “cropped”, leaving the bud to grow new leaves, or the entire kale plant is harvested at one cutting. For a fall crop, wait until the kale plants are touched by a frost to sweeten the taste.
KALE PESTS & DISEASES:
Cabbage worms and loopers on kale (white and yellow butterflies) can be decreased with the use of row covers to block out all insects including root maggots, aphids and Diamondback moths. Maintaining a soil pH of 6.8 and higher will discourage club root. Fungal and bacteria diseases on kale such as head rot and downy mildew can be prevented by allowing good air circulation and avoiding a mid August maturity when the air humidity is higher. Strong healthy kale growing in an organically rich soil will be better able to fight disease.
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Brassica oleracea var acephala
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Organically rich soil, well‐drained
pH RANGE: 6.0 ‐ 7.0
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average
MATURITY IN DAYS: 55 ‐ 60
KNOWN PESTS: Cabbage worms and loopers, root maggots, aphids and Diamondback moths KNOWN DISEASES: Head rot and downy mildew
OVERVIEW:
Kale does not do well in hot weather, but doesn't mind the cold. Depending on your climate kale can also be sown in October for spring use if covered with straw during the winter. Kale is rich in Vitamins A and C, high in potassium, calcium and iron, and is a good source of fiber. Kale maintains flavor best when frozen. Kale is also great in salads.
PROPAGATION / SOWING OF KALE:
Plant kale as soon as the ground can be worked, very frost tolerant. Sow ¼‐½” deep, 1” apart in rows 18‐30” apart. Thin seedlings to 8‐12” apart. Kale germinates easily in cool or warm soil temperatures with even moisture.
COMPANION PLANTING OF KALE:
Bush bean, beet, celery, cucumber, lettuce, onion, potato.
CARE & GROWING OF KALE:
Choose an area with full sun and a soil pH of 6.0‐7.0. Enrich the soil with compost or well rotted manure. Flavour of kale is improved if the plants grow quickly. Kale benefits from additional feedings of liquid fertilizer during the growing season.
HARVESTING OF KALE:
Kale leaves can be used at any time for salads or as garnishes. Leaves are “cropped”, leaving the bud to grow new leaves, or the entire kale plant is harvested at one cutting. For a fall crop, wait until the kale plants are touched by a frost to sweeten the taste.
KALE PESTS & DISEASES:
Cabbage worms and loopers on kale (white and yellow butterflies) can be decreased with the use of row covers to block out all insects including root maggots, aphids and Diamondback moths. Maintaining a soil pH of 6.8 and higher will discourage club root. Fungal and bacteria diseases on kale such as head rot and downy mildew can be prevented by allowing good air circulation and avoiding a mid August maturity when the air humidity is higher. Strong healthy kale growing in an organically rich soil will be better able to fight disease.
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